Violet Empire was released last month by CB I Hate Perfume, and is said to have been inspired in part by Diane Ackerman's A Natural History of the Senses. The fragrance notes include CB Violet Empress (a violet accord), elemi, violet leaf absolute, rosewood, mahogany and Russian leather.

Violet Empire is a must-try for violet lovers, although it is not a soliflore in the manner of say, Borsari's Violetta di Parma. According to Christopher Brosius, the perfumer behind the CB I Hate Perfume line, the violet "perpetually peeps out from behind a shining green veil", and that is accurate for the top notes, which feature violet on a bed of green leaves and minty herbs. As it dries down, the green fades but does not quite disappear as it is joined by deep woods and a mild trail of leather.

In character Violet Empire feels both genderless and grown-up; it has nothing of the girly prettiness of L'Artisan Verte Violette. It is not a heavy scent, but the woods and leather lend enough depth to make it a great choice for the crisp days of fall. At the same time, if leather scares you — and sometimes it scares me — rest assured that it isn't cracking a whip here. Lovely stuff, and highly recommended.

Violet Empire comes in 15 ml perfume oil or 100 ml water perfume, and samples are available. For purchasing information, see the listing for CB I Hate Perfume under Perfume Houses.