Perfume Houses ~ C

French couture house established by Carmen de Tomasso (later known as Madame Carven) in 1945. Her understated designs, influenced by her training in interior design, were popular with petite (she was 5' 2") and younger women, as was her use of simple fabrics (she was said to be the first couture designer to use cotton).

Fragrances were introduced in 1946 with Ma Griffe. Along with Vetiver (1957), it remains the line's best known scent.

Website: Carven

Perfume house of sportswear & jeans designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, whom Women's Wear Daily calls "one of France's most offbeat designers". Fragrances include Premier de Jean Charles Castelbajac (1982, discontinued) and Castelbajac (2001).

Website: Castelbajac

Small niche perfumery established by Malcolm Forbes and named for a castle built by his grandfather in Scotland. Line currently includes 2 feminine and 4 masculine fragrances.

Website: Castle Forbes

Soap & toiletries company established in the United States in 1752, and one of the early pioneers of the mail order catalog business.

Website: Caswell Massey

Niche perfumery established in Brooklyn in 2004 by perfumer Christopher Brosius, formerly of Demeter. The line includes perfumes as well as individual accords (examples include Celo Tape, Birthday Cake and Bonfire).

See reviews of Mr. Hulot's Holiday & Russian Caravan Tea, Just Breathe, Burning Leaves & Gathering Apples, Memory of Kindness and Winter 1972.

Recent releases include Tea/Rose (2006), M2 Black March (2006), Wild Pansy (2006), CB Musk (2006), Violet Empire (2006), Cradle of Light & Revelation (2006), Gingerbread (Holiday limited edition, 2006), Eternal Return, Wild Hunt, Greenbriar 1968, I am a Dandelion, Under the Arbor (2007), Fire From Heaven & Gingerbread (2007).

Where to buy: from the website or the boutique in Brooklyn, or at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC, or luckyscent.

Website: CB I Hate Perfume

Fashion and leather goods house established in 1946 and now held by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy. Their first fragrance, Magic, launched in 1996; recent launches include Celine Fever (2005).

Website: Celine

Canadian pop singer. Fragrances are produced under license to Coty, and include Celine (2003), Parfum Notes (2004), Belong (2005), Always Belong (2006), Celine Dion Enchanting (2006).

Recent releases include Spring in Paris (2007), Paris Nights (2007), Sensational (2008).

Website: Celine Dion Beauty

Cereus was established in 2004. The company's focus is on "concept and brand development" (e.g., they help other brands to launch fragrance lines); their own "house line" of fragrances launched in 2007 with Cereus Pour Homme No. 4, No. 5, No. 7 & No. 11.

Where to buy: at Barneys or luckyscent.

Website: Cereus Development

Cerruti was first established in 1881 as a textile business in Biella, Italy. In the 20th century, Nino Cerruti built the company into a fashion design house. Fragrances were introduced in 1978, and are now produced under Coty, Inc.

Recent fragrance releases include Cerruti 1881 Collection (2005), Cerruti 1881 Blanc (2006), Cerruti 1881 Black for men (2006), Cerruti 1881 Lumieres d'Ete (2007), Cerruti Pour Homme (2007), 1881 En Fleurs (2008).

Fashion design house founded by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1910. Chanel was known first for her hats, and later for the relatively relaxed but elegant fashions that replaced corset-based styles with simple jersey suits and dresses, and later, pants. The iconic Chanel suit was introduced after the war, in 1954. Chanel died in 1971.

The first Chanel fragrance, Chanel No. 5, was launched in 1921, and like other early Chanel fragrances (Chanel no. 22, Bois des Iles, Gardenia and Cuir de Russie) was created by perfumer Ernest Beaux. Various apocryphal stories surround the creation of Chanel No. 5, including the well-known tale that the final formula was the result of an error on the part of Beaux's assistant, who mistakenly increased the intended amount of aldehydes. Regardless, No. 5 was a huge seller and became one of the world's best known perfumes.

Chanel No. 19 was introduced in 1971. Fragrances released since the death of Coco Chanel include Cristalle (1974), Coco (1984), Allure (1996), Allure Homme (1998), Coco Mademoiselle (2001) and Chance (2002). Jacques Polge has been house nose at Chanel since 1978.

In 2007, Chanel introduced a new, limited distribution line called Les Exclusifs de Chanel, including four existing scents (Chanel no. 22, Bois des Iles, Gardenia and Cuir de Russie) and six new fragrances (Bel Respiro, 28 La Pausa, 31 Rue Cambon, Coromandel, no. 18 and Eau de Cologne). In 2008, Sycomore was added to the range. These are available only in Chanel boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman and selected Nordstrom stores (Seattle has them).

Other recent releases include Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche (2007), Allure Homme Sport Cologne Sport (2007), No. 5 Eau Premiere (2007), Allure Homme Edition Blanche (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores and online fragrance discounters. Your best bet for the harder to find fragrances is directly through the Chanel website (see below).

Website: Chanel

French lingerie brand with several perfumes, including Chantal Thomass (2002), Ame Coquine (2004), Et Plus si Affinités (limited edition, 2005), Sexy Summer (limited edition, 2005).

Where to buy: at escentual in the UK; in the US, check the online discounters.

Website: Chantal Thomass

Beauty house launched in 1997 by Sylvie Chantecaille, who had previously worked for several other beauty brands, including Prescriptives. The line debuted with three fragrances: Wisteria, Frangipane and Tiare. Color cosmetics and skincare followed.

Later fragrances include Darby Rose (1999), Le Jasmin (2003).

Where to buy: at eluxury, spacenk or Bergdorf Goodman, selected Neiman Marcus and CO Bigelow stores.

Website: Chantecaille

French fashion design house. Their first fragrance, Chloe, was introduced in 1975 while Karl Lagerfeld was the house designer. It was followed by Narcisse (1992) and Innocence (1996). The Chloe fragrance business is currently held by Coty.

Recent releases include Chloe Collection 2005 (limited edition), Chloe Eau de Parfum (2007).

High end jewelry and watchmaker established in 1860. Well known fragrances include Casmir, Wish, Madness and Infiniment.

Recent releases include Wish Pink Diamond (2005), Chopard Pour Homme (2006), Wish Turquoise Diamond (2007), Happy Spirit (2007).

Chopard fragrances are produced under licensing arrangements with Coty.

Website: Chopard

French fashion house established in 1946 and famous for the "New Look": pinched waist, soft shoulders, full skirts. See pictures of the New Look fashions, and read more about Dior's designs at designmuseum. Christian Dior passed away in 1957; current designers for the house are John Galliano for the women's line; Hedi Slimane for the men's. In 2007, Hedi Slimane was let go, his replacement is rumored to be Kris Van Assche.

Miss Dior was launched in 1947. After that came Diorama (1949), Eau Fraiche, Diorissimo (1956), Eau Sauvage (1956), Diorling (1963), Diorella (1972), Dioressence (1979), Dior Dior and Jules.

Poison, released in 1985, was the first feminine fragrance without the word Dior in the name, and was followed by the flankers Tendre Poison (1994), Hypnotic Poison (1998), Pure Poison (2004) and Midnight Poison (2007). 

Other well known Dior fragrances include Dune, Fahrenheit, J'Adore, Dolce Vita, and Addict.

Recent releases include Miss Dior Cherie (2005), Dior Addict 2 (2005), Dior Homme (2005), Pure Poison Elixir (2006), Midnight Charm (2006), Fahrenheit 32 (2007), Dior Addict 2 Summer Peonies (2007), Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Toilette (2007), Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir (2007), Dior Addict Shine & J'Adore Le Jasmin (2007), J'Adore L'Absolu (2007), Dior Homme Intense (2007), La Collection Particuliere Passage N°4, N°8 & N°9 (2007), Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Printemps (2008), Escale a Portofino (2008), Dior Addict 2 Summer Litchi (2008).

Christian Dior Parfums is now part of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.

Where to buy: major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Website: Christian Dior

French fashion house; Christian Lacroix started out at Jean Patou, then opened his own house in 1987. Lacroix was Creative Director at Pucci for several years ending in 2006. His own house is currently owned by The Falic Group, who purchased it from Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.

Fragrances were introduced with C'est La Vie (1989), followed by Christian Lacroix (1999), Bazar (women & men, 2002), Tumulte for women (2005) and Tumulte Pour Homme (2005).

Recent releases include C'est La Fete (2007), and Christian Lacroix Rouge & Noir (in conjuction with Avon, 2007).

Website: Christian Lacroix

American pop singer. Two fragrances were introduced in the early 2000s under agreements with New Dana Perfumes (now Dana Classic Fragrances); those perfumes, never widely distributed, are now discontinued. Her debut fragrance under new arrangements with Procter & Gamble, Christina Aguilera, was introduced in 2007.

Website: Christina Aguilera

Fashion model whose fragrances are produced under arrangements with Wella. Her first fragrance, Cindy Crawford, launched in 2003; her latest release was Summer Day (2006).

Website: Cindy Crawford (site no longer live as of early 2008)

French spa line established by Jean-Louis Poiroux in 2000. Fragrance products include Eau Egyptienne.

Recent releases include the Pluie d’Arômes collection (2007).

Where to buy: online at beautyhabit.

Website: Cinq Mondes

French cosmetics firm established in 1954. Fragrances include Eau Dynamisante, Elysium and Eau Ressourcante. See review for “Relax” Bath & Shower Concentrate and Body Balm.

Recent releases include Par Amour and Par Amour Toujours (2005), Eau Ensoleillante aka Sunshine Fragrance (2007).

Website: Clarins

French fashion designer who established her own line in 1984. Her first fragrance, Mon Premier, launched in 1999.

Recent releases include Eau de Claudie, Eau de Cloco and Eau de Pierlot (2007).

Website: Claudie Pierlot

Claus Porto was founded in 1887 in the city of Porto, Portugal, by two German chemists: Ferdinand Claus and Georges Schwedder. The founders were forced to leave Portugal during WWI and sold the company to Achilles de Brito, who renamed the firm “Ach. Brito Cosmética.” Under de Brito’s leadership, the company prospered and became known for its luxurious soaps. Today, Claus Porto sells bar and liquid soap, bath foams and salts, body lotions, candles, and a men’s fragrance and grooming line under the name Musgo Real (see Agua de Colonia no 1, no 2 & no. 3).

See review for Voga candle, Alface candle & Alface scented body products.

Where to buy: beauty.com, beautycollection, lafcony, smallflower, and selected Saks stores.

Website: Claus Porto

Fragrance line founded in 2003 by Randi Shinder, who wanted to create "a fragrance that was reminiscent of pure soap, that universal fresh out of the shower scent". Fragrances include Clean, Clean Men, Clean Fresh Laundry and Clean Sweet Layer.

Recent releases include Clean Warm Cotton, Lather & Shower Fresh (2007), Wellness by Clean Harmony & Purity (2008).

Where to buy: available online at b-glowing, beautycafe, nordstrom and sephora.

Website: Clean

Line established by Melissa Flagg with the launch of Clementine (2007?).

Recent releases include Hazel's Perfume (2007), Mily Perfume (2008), Fleur de Grace (2008), Violet's Perfume (2008). 

Where to buy: beautyhabit.

Website: Clementine Perfume

Launched by Estee Lauder in 1968 and initially famous for the "3 step skincare system". Fragrances include Aromatics Elixir (1971), Wrappings (1990) and Simply (2003). Chemistry for men was introduced in 1994.

Happy was launched in 1997 and became a big seller for the brand. Clinique followed with Happy for men (1999), Happy Heart (2003), Happy to Be (2004) and Happy in Bloom (2006).

Recent releases include Aromatics Elixir Velvet Sheer (2006), Happy Summer Spray (2007).

Where to buy: Clinique counters at major department stores, and online fragrance discounters.

Website: Clinique

Clive Christian's firm creates luxury custom kitchens and interiors as well as freestanding furniture, tableware, and other high end goods.

Christian purchased the historic Crown Perfumery in 1999. One of their vintage scents inspired his first fragrance release under his own name, 1872 (named for the year Crown was established), which launched in 2001. In 2002, he discontinued the Crown line, but has continued to release new fragrances under the Clive Christian label, including No. 1 (advertised as "the world's most expensive perfume") and X.

Where to buy: online at nordstrom or saks.

Website: Clive Christian

American leather goods brand established in New York City in 1941. Coach was acquired by Sara Lee in 1985, then spun off into a separate company again in 2000.

Their debut fragrance, Coach The Fragrance, was introduced in 2007.

Where to buy: at Coach boutiques or online (see below).

Website: Coach

Tokyo-based fashion design house of Rei Kawakubo. "I have never really been into fragrances," said Kawakubo in 1999 (Women's Wear Daily, 9/20/2003), and perhaps that attitude explains the brand's strikingly unconventional range of scents.

Their first perfume, Comme des Garcons Eau de Parfum, launched in 1994. Other fragrances include White (1996), Odeur 53 (1998), Comme des Garcons 2 (1999), Odeur 71 (2000), Comme des Garcons 3 (2002), Comme des Garcons 2 Man (2004). The license for these fragrances is held by Puig Beauty.

In addition to the above, there is a series of series, or themed sets, of fragrances, including Series 1: Leaves (2000), Series 2: Red (Harisssa, Sequoia, Palisander, Carnation and Rose), Series 3: Incense (Avignon, Jaisalmer, Kyoto, Ouarzazate & Zagorsk, 2002), Series 4: Cologne (2002), Series 5: Sherbet (2003), Series 6: Synthetic, Series 7: Sweet (2005), Series 8: Energy C Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime (2008).

Recent releases include Guerilla 1 and Guerilla 2 (2006), Comme des Garcons Play (2007), Luxe Patchouli & Luxe Champaca (2007), 888 (2008), Monocle x Comme des Garçons Scent One: Hinoki (2008).

Where to buy: online at luckyscent, or at Barneys in New York City, or at one of the Comme des Garcons boutiques (there is one in Chelsea in NYC). In the UK, try escentual or doverstreetmarket (and see also, shopping report for Dover Street Market).

French niche fragrance line founded in 1974. The "Eaux de Voyage" scents are inspired by the islands of the South Pacific; many are based on vanilla and/or tropical flowers and fruits. See reviews for Aqua Motu (1992) and the Soins de Plaisir Body Care line.

Recent releases include Vanille Extreme (2005), Vanille Pineapple (2006), Vanille Citrus (2006), Vanille Amande (2006, relaunch), Coco Extreme (2006), Caramel Sunset (2007), Mage d'Orient and Eau de Naphé (2007), Eau des Lagons (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, b-glowing, fourseasons, luckyscent, sephora or selected fragrance discounters in the US, senteursdailleurs in Brussels.

Website: Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Italian fashion design house founded by Ennio and Carlo Capasa. Their first fragrance, Scent, was introduced in 2002, and has been followed by Scent Intense, Scent Gloss, and Scent Sheer.

Recent releases include 21 Costume National (2008).

Where to buy: online at barneys, kitson or luckyscent, or check the online fragrance discounters.

Website: Costume National

Provence-inspired line of home fragrances, personal fragrances and bath & body items founded by Nicole Houques. The line includes a range of reasonably priced Eau de Toilettes in Amber, Iris, Mimosa, Orange Blossom, and more. Also see reviews for Peche de Vigne fragrance, Peche de Vigne candle, and Figuier candle.

Where to buy: online at aedes, beautyhabit or fourseasons.

Website: Cote Bastide

In 1904, François Spoturno moved to Paris, took the name Coty and launched his perfume business. He was one of the first to understand the importance of fragrance packaging and a beautiful bottle, and his business grew until he was one of the wealthiest men in France. You can read a 1930 New Yorker profile on Coty here. He died in 1934.

Chypre, arguably his most famous scent (among modern perfume freaks, at any rate), was released in 1917; other well-known fragrances include L'Origan, L'Aimant, Jungle Gardenia and Emeraude. See also the review of Muguet des Bois (1941).

The history of the modern company, Coty, Inc, is too complicated to relate in detail here, but it is currently one of the largest fragrance and cosmetics companies in the world. Relatively few fragrances are now released under the Coty brand name itself; most releases are from other brands in the Coty portfolio. In 2005, Coty purchased Unilever's fragrance business, thereby acquiring the rights to fragrances under the names Calvin Klein and Vera Wang, among others.

There are two major fragrance divisions: Coty Beauty, which produces mass market brands such as Adidas, Aspen, Celine Dion, David and Victoria Beckham, Desperate Housewives, Esprit, Jovan, Isabella Rossellini, Kylie Minogue, Mary-Kate & Ashley, Miss Sixty, Shania Twain and Stetson; and Coty Prestige (formerly the Lancaster Group), which markets prestige brands such as Baby Phat, Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Chloe, Chopard, Davidoff, Gwen Stefani/LAMB, Jennifer Lopez, Jil Sander, Joop!, Kenneth Cole, Marc Jacobs, Nautica, Phat Farm, Sarah Jessica Parker, Vera Wang and Vivienne Westwood.

Website: Coty

The luxury cognac brand, currently owned by Beam Global Spirits & Wine, entered the fragrance market in 2007 with Courvoisier L'edition Imperiale, a fragrance for men. There are plans in the works for several more fragrances.

The fragrance license for Courvoisier is held by Kraft International Marketing.

Where to buy: in the US, at Bergdorf Goodman, in the UK at John Lewis.

Apothecary line known for its traditional English-style goods, although the company was actually established in Cambridge, Massachussetts in the 1970s.

Recent releases include Lost and Found (2006), Jilt, Folly & India Hicks Island Living Spider Lily (2007, see review for Spider Lily Body Cream), West Indian Lime (2007), Uncharted (2007).

Website: Crabtree & Evelyn

French line of solid, twist-up perfumes established in 2005 by Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud. There are currently 3 ranges: the Shanghaijava Collection (see review for Encens Mystic), Poule de Luxe (see reviews for Vanilla Moka, Vanilla Macarons & Vanilla Pralines) and Les Divines Alcoves (see reviews for Aux Anges, Amoureuse & Tout Oublier).

Recent additions include Les Olfactives - L'Olfactive 122, L'Olfactive 127 & L'Olfactive 129 (2007), Les Batons (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at b-glowing, beautyhabit, lacremebeauty or luckyscent, in France at sephora.fr, in the UK at hqhair.

Website: Crazylibellule & The Poppies

Independent perfumery established by Sarah Horowitz-Thran in 1994. Horowitz-Thran creates custom perfumes on request. Lines include Perfumer's Palette, a set of single note scents to wear alone or layer, and the ready-made Perfect Perfumes, including Perfect Gardenia, Perfect Vanilla, Perfect Nectar, Perfect Bliss and Perfect Veil. Recent releases include Perfect Kiss (2007).

A "What Comes From Within" collection under the name Sarah Horowitz includes Peace, Light & Love and Joy Comes From Within (all 2006), Beauty Comes from Within (2007).

Where to buy: apothia, beautyhabit, fourseasons, lacremebeauty, luckyscent and luilei.

Website: Creative Scentualization

Small perfume line established by Beth Terry. Fragrances include Te (1997), Mare (1997), Vita (2002) and Element of Surprise (2004).

Recent releases include Element of Desire (2006).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent, newlondonpharmacy, also selected Barneys stores.

Website: Creative Universe

Perfume house established in London in 1760. Creed moved its operations to Paris in 1854, and remains a family-owned company.

Recent releases include Original Santal, Love in White (2005), Virgin Island Water (2007).

Where to buy: aedes, fourseasons, parfumsraffy or neimanmarcus.

Website: Creed

Italian knitwear house known for its cashmere designs. Fragrances include Cashmere for men & Cashmere for Women (2006).

Recent releases include Rapsodia in Blu (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent, in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Website: Cristiano Fissore

Crown Perfumery was founded in 1872 by William Thomson, a chemist who started out by producing lavender smelling salts to restore the ladies who fainted while trying on the wares in his father's corset shop. This was followed by a line of perfumes in the English style, à la Floris or Penhaligons. The company was eventually sold, then folded, was later resurrected, and later still was purchased by Clive Christian. Christian first streamlined the range of fragrances, then discontinued the line altogether in 2002. See review of Eau de Russe.

Where to buy: some stock remains at parfumsraffy.

See Liz Claiborne.

American fashion designer whose first fragrance, Cynthia Rowley, debuted in 2005. In 2008, Cynthia Rowley launched Flower & Petal for Avon.

Website: Cynthia Rowley

British maker of bathroom fixtures founded in 1979. They launched a fragrance line in 1980. There are currently 9 fragrances in the range, including Neroli and no. 88.

Where to buy: online at apothia or cambridgechemists.

Website: Czech & Speake